A Guide to Haweswater: A Hidden Lake District Gem

While the crowds flock to Windermere, Coniston, and Derwentwater, Haweswater sits quietly in the eastern Lake District, waiting to be discovered. This long, narrow reservoir is one of the most atmospheric places in the national park — wilder, emptier, and more dramatic than its more famous neighbours. If you’re staying at our cottages near Penrith, Haweswater is less than half an hour’s drive and makes for a memorable day out.

The History of Haweswater

Haweswater was originally a natural lake, but in the 1930s Manchester Corporation dammed the valley to create a reservoir for the city’s water supply. The dam raised the water level by 29 metres, and the village of Mardale Green was drowned beneath the rising waters. The villagers were relocated, the church was demolished, and the buildings disappeared beneath the surface.

During exceptionally dry summers, the water level drops and the ruins of Mardale Green emerge from the lake — stone walls, the old road, and the foundations of buildings appear like ghosts from the past. It happened in 1984, 2003, and 2022, and it’s an eerie and fascinating sight when it occurs. Even when the village is submerged, knowing it’s there gives Haweswater an emotional weight that sets it apart from other lakes.

Walking at Haweswater

The Lakeshore Path (9 miles circular)

The full circuit of Haweswater is one of the finest walks in the eastern Lake District. The path runs along both shores of the lake, through ancient woodland, along rocky shorelines, and over open fell. The western shore is wilder and more remote, with the dramatic crags of Harter Fell and High Street rising above.

Allow 4-5 hours for the full circuit. The terrain is mostly good paths, but there are some rougher sections on the western side. The views throughout are magnificent, and you’ll likely see very few other walkers.

Distance: 9 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Start/finish: Burnbanks car park (free) or Mardale Head car park (limited spaces)

Mardale Head to Small Water and Nan Bield Pass

From the road end at Mardale Head, a path climbs steeply to the mountain tarn of Small Water, set in a dramatic glacial corrie. From there, you can continue over Nan Bield Pass and descend into the Kentmere valley, or return the way you came. The climb to Small Water is about 2 miles and gains around 300 metres of height — it’s a proper fell walk with real mountain scenery.

Measand Beck and the Woodland Walk

For a shorter walk, the path from Burnbanks along the northern shore to Measand Beck is gentle and beautiful, passing through Naddle Forest — ancient semi-natural woodland with oaks, birches, and a rich understorey. Allow about an hour each way. It’s an especially lovely walk in autumn when the woodland colours are stunning.

Wildlife at Haweswater

Golden Eagles

Haweswater was for many years the only place in England where golden eagles bred. A pair nested on the crags above the lake from 1969 until 2016, when the last male died. There have been occasional sightings since, and conservationists hope eagles will return as populations in southern Scotland grow. The RSPB maintained a viewing point for years, and the crags above Riggindale remain thrilling — golden eagle or not.

Other Wildlife

Even without eagles, Haweswater is excellent for wildlife. Red deer are common on the surrounding fells, peregrine falcons nest on the crags, and the ancient woodlands support red squirrels, pied flycatchers, and wood warblers. The lake itself holds Arctic char, schelly (a rare whitefish), and brown trout.

Practical Information

Getting There

From Penrith, take the A6 south to Shap, then follow the minor road west to Bampton and on to Haweswater. It’s about 25-30 minutes from our cottages. The road is narrow in places, particularly the final stretch to Mardale Head, but perfectly manageable.

Parking

There are two main car parks:

• Burnbanks: At the northern (dam) end. Free parking, and the starting point for the lakeshore circuit and the woodland walk.
• Mardale Head: At the southern road end. Small and often full by mid-morning in summer and at weekends. This is the starting point for fell walks to Small Water, Harter Fell, and High Street.

Facilities

There are no cafes, shops, or toilets at Haweswater (there are basic toilets at Mardale Head car park). Bring everything you need with you — food, drinks, waterproofs, and layers. The Haweswater Hotel at Burnbanks occasionally serves refreshments, but don’t rely on it. The nearest reliable refreshment stop is the village of Bampton, which has a pub.

Why Visit Haweswater?

Haweswater offers something that the busier parts of the Lake District sometimes lack: solitude. You can walk for miles without meeting another person, sit on the lakeshore with nothing but the sound of water and wind, and feel genuinely remote despite being only half an hour from the M6. It’s the Lake District at its most unspoilt and atmospheric.

From Fern Cottage, Maple Cottage, or Rittson Cottage, Haweswater is an easy day trip that feels like stepping into a wilder, quieter world. We can’t recommend it highly enough.