Appleby-in-Westmorland is one of those quiet English towns that takes you by surprise. Tucked into a loop of the River Eden about 13 miles south-east of Penrith, it’s small enough to explore in an afternoon yet packed with enough history, charm, and character to fill a whole day. If you’re staying at one of our holiday cottages near the Lake District, a trip to Appleby is well worth the 20-minute drive.
A Brief History of Appleby
Appleby was once the county town of Westmorland, and it wears its history proudly. The town’s layout hasn’t changed much since medieval times: a single broad main street — Boroughgate — runs steeply uphill from the riverside to the castle at the top. It was granted its market charter in 1179, and there’s still a sense of that old market town spirit, particularly on Saturdays when the weekly market sets up in the town centre.
The town is perhaps most famous for the Appleby Horse Fair, held every June. It’s Europe’s largest gathering of Gypsies and Travellers, and it transforms the town into a colourful, bustling spectacle. If your visit coincides with the fair, you’re in for quite an experience.
Things to Do in Appleby
Appleby Castle
Sitting grandly at the top of Boroughgate, Appleby Castle dates back to Norman times and was later restored by the formidable Lady Anne Clifford in the 17th century. The castle grounds include a rare breeds survival centre, which children love, and the views across the Eden Valley from the keep are stunning. Opening times and admission prices vary seasonally, so it’s worth checking ahead.
Address: Boroughgate, Appleby-in-Westmorland CA16 6XH
Walking Along the River Eden
The riverside walks around Appleby are some of the prettiest in the Eden Valley. You can follow the path along the River Eden from the town centre, crossing the old bridge and looping through meadows and woodland. In summer, the river pools are popular with swimmers and paddlers — it’s proper wild swimming territory. The circular walk from Appleby to the village of Bolton and back is about four miles and makes for a lovely morning out.
Boroughgate and the Town Centre
Appleby’s main street is a joy to wander. Boroughgate is lined with independent shops, cafes, and pubs, many housed in handsome Georgian and Victorian buildings. Look out for the Moot Hall halfway up — a striking 16th-century building that once served as the town hall. There are several good tea rooms and cafes for lunch, and the town has a pleasantly unhurried pace that makes it perfect for a relaxed browse.
St Lawrence’s Church
At the bottom of Boroughgate, the medieval Church of St Lawrence is worth a visit. Inside, you’ll find the tomb of Lady Anne Clifford, who did so much to restore Appleby Castle and other properties across the north of England. The church itself is a peaceful spot, and the surrounding churchyard has lovely views across to the river.
The Settle-Carlisle Railway
Appleby is a stop on the famous Settle-Carlisle railway line, one of England’s most scenic train journeys. Even if you’re driving, consider parking up and taking the train one way — the stretch over the Ribblehead Viaduct and through the Yorkshire Dales is spectacular. It’s a brilliant rainy-day activity, and you can hop off at various stations along the way for walks or lunch.
Exploring the Wider Eden Valley
Appleby makes a great starting point for exploring the Eden Valley more broadly. The valley stretches from the Pennines to the Lake District fells, and it’s wonderfully unspoilt. A few highlights within easy reach:
- Brough Castle: Another of Lady Anne Clifford’s restorations, about 8 miles south-east of Appleby. A dramatic ruin with free access.
- Dufton: A pretty village at the foot of the Pennines, and the starting point for walks up to High Cup Nick — one of the most dramatic geological features in England.
- Kirkby Stephen: A pleasant market town further down the valley, with good independent shops and the start of the Coast to Coast walk.
- Acorn Bank: A National Trust garden near Temple Sowerby with a wonderful herb garden and orchards. The watermill is also fascinating.
Where to Eat in Appleby
For lunch, try The Royal Oak on Boroughgate for pub food in a traditional setting, or Courtyard Cafe for lighter bites and excellent cake. The Tufton Arms Hotel does a good restaurant menu and is a pleasant spot for a more leisurely meal.
Getting There from Our Cottages
Appleby is about a 20-minute drive from Fern Cottage and Maple Cottage in Great Strickland, and around 25 minutes from Rittson Cottage in Eamont Bridge. Take the A66 east and then follow signs south through the Eden Valley — it’s a gorgeous drive. You can also reach Appleby by train from Penrith, which takes about 20 minutes on the Settle-Carlisle line.
However you get there, Appleby is one of those places that stays with you. It’s quiet, beautiful, and full of stories — exactly the kind of place you hope to discover on a Lake District holiday.