England’s Most Beautiful Lake (We Said What We Said)
Windermere gets the crowds. Coniston gets the literary pilgrims. But Ullswater? Ullswater gets the people who actually know the Lake District. It’s the second-largest lake in England, shaped like a bent arm reaching seven and a half miles through some of the most dramatic scenery in Cumbria. And it’s right on our doorstep — about 15 minutes from our cottages in Great Strickland.
Getting Your Bearings
Ullswater runs roughly south-west from Pooley Bridge at the top to Glenridding and Patterdale at the bottom. The northern end is gentle — rolling farmland, easy lakeside paths. The southern end is where the big fells crowd in and everything gets more dramatic. Both ends are worth your time.
The Steamer Cruises
The Ullswater Steamers are not a tourist gimmick. They’ve been carrying passengers since 1859 and remain genuinely useful transport as well as a beautiful way to see the lake. Three main routes:
- Pooley Bridge to Glenridding (full lake, about 1 hour) — the complete experience.
- Pooley Bridge to Howtown — a popular option, as you can walk back along the eastern shore (see below).
- Glenridding to Howtown — the shorter hop, useful if you’re already at the southern end.
Boats run year-round but more frequently in summer. Check the timetable before you go, especially outside peak season.
The Best Walks Around Ullswater
Howtown to Glenridding (Lakeshore Path)
This is the classic. Take the steamer to Howtown and walk back along the eastern shore to Glenridding — about seven miles of lakeside path with barely any road walking. The views are extraordinary and the path is well-maintained. Allow three to four hours and bring lunch.
Hallin Fell
A short, steep climb from Martindale that takes about 45 minutes to the summit. The reward is a full panorama of Ullswater laid out below you. It’s one of the best view-to-effort ratios in the entire Lake District. Families with older children manage it fine.
Aira Force and Gowbarrow
The Aira Force waterfall walk is well-known for good reason — a 20-metre cascade through mossy woodland. But carry on up through Gowbarrow Park and you’ll find yourself on open fellside with the lake spreading out below. Far fewer people make it up here.
Pooley Bridge to Howtown (Lakeside)
A gentler alternative to the eastern shore path, sticking closer to the road but still with lovely lake views. Good for pushchairs and slower walkers in the Pooley Bridge section.
Wild Swimming
Ullswater has some of the cleanest water in the Lakes. Popular swimming spots include the shingle beach near Glenridding and the quieter coves along the eastern shore (accessible from the Howtown walk). The water is cold even in August — that’s Cumbria for you — but it’s wonderfully clear.
Eating and Drinking
Pooley Bridge has several good pubs and cafes. At the Glenridding end, the Inn on the Lake does decent food with a terrace overlooking the water. For something special, the Michelin-starred Dog & Gun in Keswick is about 40 minutes from Pooley Bridge.
Closer to home, if you’re staying with us, the Strickland Arms (200 yards from Fern Cottage) and The Beehive at Eamont Bridge (a 3-minute walk from Rittson Cottage) are both excellent local pubs.
Quieter Corners
Martindale, on the eastern shore, is one of the least-visited valleys in the Lake District. The old church of St Martin’s dates from the 1600s and sits in near-perfect solitude. Red deer roam the upper valley. If you want to escape the crowds, this is where to come.
Stay Close to Ullswater
Our cottages in Great Strickland and Eamont Bridge put you within 15 minutes of Ullswater’s northern shore, without the premium prices of lakeside accommodation. Maple Cottage sleeps six in a characterful 17th-century barn conversion, while Rittson Cottage offers a quirky riverside retreat for couples. Book direct for the best rates and start planning your Ullswater adventure.